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In many ways, museum shows are the anti-art fair experience: they run for longer; nothing can be purchased; and when done well, they put forth a perspective that gives the works included greater depth. With this non-exhaustive selection, familiar ideas and themes emerge anew, either owing to greater distance and reflection, or because the evolution of how we live prompts a revised, more relevant reading. They are worthy detours from the art fair circuit—and for anyone else visiting Paris through the coming months.
Within the museum’s soaring nave and surrounding galleries, layers of clashing color, radical shapes, and cultural exuberance are grounded by the national and historic events that made the ’80s such a defining creative decade in France: the presidency of François Mitterrand, the AIDS epidemic, the fall of the Berlin Wall, and the bicentenary of the French Revolution. Spanning fashion, design, and graphic arts, the exhibition reveals how inspiration was flowing in all directions, which the curators convey as carambolages or a pile-up of objects. Independence contributed to the diversity of stylistic expression, whether from the flamboyant couturiers Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix, the avant-garde masterminds Azzedine Alaïa and Rei Kawakubo, or everyday designers such as Agnès B. “This independence allowed them to create with complete freedom,” said fashion curator Mathilde Le Corre. At the same time, mainstream brands such as Kookai and Naf Naf became the antecedents to fast fashion, while Fiorucci set the stage for collaboration. In the realm of design, the arrival of Philippe Starck and the birth of Memphis were two sides of the same eccentric coin. Campaigns by Jean-Paul Goude and graphic posters for Act Up-Paris, an organization that raised awareness and support for AIDS, were gutsy, impactful, and brought a stigmatized subject to the forefront. There is a poignant layer, too: While many of us have salient memories from the pre-Internet ’80s, some of the iconic talents on display—Thierry Mugler, William Klein, and Issey Miyake, among them—are no longer alive. All the more reason to celebrate this collective legacy.
At least two of these shows were originally slated for 2020, but extended Covid closures and the uncertainty of re-openings complicated the coordinating of calendar slots and loans. Now, just as this season’s Paris Fashion Week felt like a true return to the energy of the Before Times, the scale of the exhibitions—and crowds attending them—is palpable. “Paris is having such a great moment. It feels very refreshing to just be in the context of others through art again,” observed Thomas during a spontaneous chat in the street after I recognized her at the pharmacy and introduced myself. We spoke about her latest series (more below) and how there are endless things to take in this week.
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